Dye Lots or Wallpaper batch number

ALWAYS make sure that each wallpaper roll is from the same run or dye lot. If not, you will have problems, trust me!

Layout the WallPaper - Keeping Waste to a Minimum

Before you break out the adhesive, you need to figure out how the paper is going to work on the wall. For example, your paper may have a dominant feature in the pattern. You don’t want this feature sliced in half by the ceiling or a chair rail. Also, seam placement is critical. You don’t want a floor to ceiling seam to be along side a door frame casing. The casing could be out of plumb. Its best to let the paper go over the casing about 1 inch so the seam is above or on top of the head piece of casing.

Plumb & Level

If you are fortunate to have level or nearly level ceilings, your wallpaper seams must be plumb. If not, the pattern will climb or fall across the ceiling. When making the plumb line, make the actual line 1/16th of an inch away from where you actually want it to be. Never place a seam on the plumb line. It will show through (especially if the wallpaperpaper background is white)! Avoid using chalk lines. The chalk will, in some cases, bleed through the wallpaper backing!

Prepasted WallPapers

Prepasted wallpapers work well when you do certain things. Activate the adhesive with lukewarm water. The wallpaper usually only needs to be immersed for about 10 seconds. The wallpaper must relax just like ordinary paper. This may take 5 - 10 minutes. This relaxation period allows the wallpaper to fully expand. If you do not allow the paper to expand on the table, it will do so on the walls! The result are long vertical blisters that often cannot be removed. Have a helper handy. The helper can be cutting your paper and activating the glue while you hang. This way a “relaxed” piece is ready to go as soon as you are.

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